06 Honda Element Rear View Mirror Assembly

These radios are amazing. Installed in my Jeep above my rear view mirror and I am stoked about it. It’s small enough to not be in the way but is great for communicating with fellow Jeep’s. I used the ghost antenna so that it didn’t get wiped out by limbs on the trail. I’m thinking of purchasing the 6db antenna to help increase my range. I feel you can’t go wrong with this radio! Will be purchasing another for my sons Jeep.

Tight fit and great protection for the rear lens element.

It covers the rear element of a 300mm Nikkor LF lens.

In the mid-1980s I bought a Nikon 7.5mm f5.6 circular fisheye. Being an older design (1966) its rear elements protruded into the mirror box. Fortunately my F3 had a hard physical mirror lockup. The external viewfinder for this lens attached to the camera on the original Nikon F/F2’s proprietary flash shoe. I was able to buy an AS-3 flash adapter for the F3. With the F3s mirror locked up I also had to use an hand-held light meter. With amazing depth of foield focusing was never an issue. The old zoom lens had six filters on a wheel. One was a skylight and the other five were strongly colored for B&W film. While I liked the circular results, using the lens was a hassle. I often had my shoes or forehead in the picture. On a sunny day, my images suffered from solar flares. My new Nikon 8-15mm AF-S fisheye has none of those old problems. It fits on my DSLRs without any problem. It doesn’t need an external finder or separate light meter. At the 8mm setting (and lens hood off) I get a circular image very much like the vintage fisheye. The new lens is faster and focusable. Like my 14mm f2.8 Nikkor, this zoom uses gel filters inserted in the rear of the lens. I really don’t like this arrangement. This fisheye is similar in weight and size to the 14mm lens. I am also not fond of the electronic aperture control first seen on G lenses. Without an aperture ring one cannot use this zoom on older cameras. At the longer end of the zoom range (12-15mm) the image fills the (FX) frame and lens hood stays out of the way. This image is similar to my inexpensive Bower (Samyang?) 8mm fisheye with its fixed lens hood (and DX coverage). So far I haven’t used my new lens much but I think I will like it.

This rack is exactly what I expected and what I needed. Easy to assemble and pretty well built. Not fancy, but looks good. I would not call this heavy duty by any stretch of the imagination, but it does seem robust enough for fairly heavy equipment (it seems a bit flimsy during the assembly process, but once it is all together it is pretty strong and rigid). This rack has usable rails on both the front and back -- excellent for a number of reasons such mounting heavy equipment with rear attachment points, mounting rear facing patch panels, or making the rack double-sided, provided the gear is not too deep and doesn't run too warm). I like the fact that the rack can be setup as metric or imperial threads (as others have noted, pay attention during assembly to ensure that you have the desired threads facing outward; it would be possible to have metric on the front, imperial on the rear (or vice versa), but this could be confusing). Includes a full set of screws for both the metric and imperial threads and the blank panel.

Comes with a neatly decorated Fotodiox rear lens cap. I removed the lens element and use it for macro.

Got this at the recommendation of a B&H employee to clean a smudge off the rear element of one of my lenses. Worked like a charm; it was easy and quick to use, and the smudge was totally gone after a few seconds.

This has to be one of my favorite micro 4/3 rear lens caps. These newer ones (made in Vietnam) are thicker plastic than the original ones from Olympus (made in China). They fit well on lenses and feel very nice. I use these on most of my micro 4/3 lenses. Do note that this does not fit the Laowa 4mm f2.8 circular fisheye, the rear metal ring that protects the rear element hits the inside of the cap. For that lens, focus to the closest focusing distance to move the rear element closer to the front element, then you can use either the older Olympus LR-2 cap (made in China) or the cap that came with that lens.

I purchased the Samyang lens in the hopes that I would be able to mount it on the Sigma SD Quattro, as I had done with other Pentax lenses in the past. Sadly, the Samyang depicted on B&H photos website image is incorrect. The image shown on the website indicates that the rear element is free and clear, whereas in actuality the rear mount has a tab protruding (for aperture actuation) near the rear glass element, that prevents the lens from being mounted on the Sigma SD Quattro. I did get the lens to work on an Olympus Micro Four Thirds camera via an adapter and found it to be extremely sharp with good contrast. It is extremely well-built and hefty.

Some micro 4/3 lenses have a rear element that goes back further than the standard caps Olympus and others make. One of these is the Venus Optics 4mm f2.8 fisheye. The cap that comes with it and most caps I've tried tend to touch the rear element when the lens is focused at infinity. I usually have to make sure the lens is focused as close at it goes before storing it with the cap. This deep cap fits that lens without hitting the rear element when the lens is focused at infinity. I also like the O-ring as it keeps the cap from coming loose accidentally.