2003 Ford Explorer Rear View Mirror Power Button

These radios are amazing. Installed in my Jeep above my rear view mirror and I am stoked about it. It’s small enough to not be in the way but is great for communicating with fellow Jeep’s. I used the ghost antenna so that it didn’t get wiped out by limbs on the trail. I’m thinking of purchasing the 6db antenna to help increase my range. I feel you can’t go wrong with this radio! Will be purchasing another for my sons Jeep.

I bought these to use in my Ford Explorer to attach my I Phone. to the auxiliary jack to listen to Pandora through the car speakers. It works great

I'm happy with it, but sometimes it makes it impossible to turn off view file extensions in windows explorer unless I reboot.

I recently purchased a Celestron Starsense Explorer DX 130AZ telescope and although the 25mm and 10mm eyepieces that came with the telescope were okay, I decided to use the 25mm and upgrade the higher power with the 9mm X-Cel LX with a wider field of view and six-element lens system. It was obvious the first time I used this new eyepiece the quality and view was so much better. I also purchased the 5mm X-Cel LX for those closer views.

I recently purchased a Celestron Starsense Explorer DX 130AZ telescope and although the 25mm and 10mm eyepieces that came with the telescope were okay, I decided to use the 25mm and upgrade the higher power with the 9mm X-Cel LX with a wider field of view and six-element lens system. It was obvious the first time I used this new eyepiece the quality and view was so much better.

In the mid-1980s I bought a Nikon 7.5mm f5.6 circular fisheye. Being an older design (1966) its rear elements protruded into the mirror box. Fortunately my F3 had a hard physical mirror lockup. The external viewfinder for this lens attached to the camera on the original Nikon F/F2’s proprietary flash shoe. I was able to buy an AS-3 flash adapter for the F3. With the F3s mirror locked up I also had to use an hand-held light meter. With amazing depth of foield focusing was never an issue. The old zoom lens had six filters on a wheel. One was a skylight and the other five were strongly colored for B&W film. While I liked the circular results, using the lens was a hassle. I often had my shoes or forehead in the picture. On a sunny day, my images suffered from solar flares. My new Nikon 8-15mm AF-S fisheye has none of those old problems. It fits on my DSLRs without any problem. It doesn’t need an external finder or separate light meter. At the 8mm setting (and lens hood off) I get a circular image very much like the vintage fisheye. The new lens is faster and focusable. Like my 14mm f2.8 Nikkor, this zoom uses gel filters inserted in the rear of the lens. I really don’t like this arrangement. This fisheye is similar in weight and size to the 14mm lens. I am also not fond of the electronic aperture control first seen on G lenses. Without an aperture ring one cannot use this zoom on older cameras. At the longer end of the zoom range (12-15mm) the image fills the (FX) frame and lens hood stays out of the way. This image is similar to my inexpensive Bower (Samyang?) 8mm fisheye with its fixed lens hood (and DX coverage). So far I haven’t used my new lens much but I think I will like it.

I just bought a replacement for the unit protecting my TV,etc. I have had 3 units since the early 90s. I use them to protect my sound equipment in a band. You never know the quality of the power system your plugging into at various locations, including occasionally generator power. I converted one unit to TV at home use when I bought a 61" HD TV in 2003. We are in the country and the voltage fluctuates a lot. Occasionally I have to run a generator when power is out. My TV use LCR2400 has been continuously on since 2003. The voltage indicators are often fluctuating. This unit recently took a hit (lightning surge) and won't come back on. It protected the equipment downstream, exactly as it is supposed to. I got my money's worth.

Out on location my go to is the Juice Box Battery for Explorer 1500 Power Supply. The great thing, its 100% less noise then your clunky generators. I have two of these workhorses and i'm very confident out on location.

Easy to set up a view, really makes a difference in just the push of a button

I shoot a lot of landscapes. In order to minimize camera vibrations while on a tripod, I use my camera (Nikon D7100) in 'mirror up' mode. I sometimes use the ML-L3 wireless remote shutter, but I'm paranoid about the battery running out while I'm miles away from 'civilization'. Thus, I picked up this little baby, intending to use it as a backup. However, I now use it as my primary shutter release. It's simple to use (just plug it into the little socket on the camera), and press the button. Actually, you need to press the button twice - once to raise the mirror, and once after the vibrations have died. There's a mechanical locking position for use with long exposures (e.g. bulb).