3D Resin Calibration Print

The Cinegel UV sheets are perfect for protecting 3D printer resin from sunlight coming through the window, without losing the light for the room.

This is my first 3D printer. The resolution is pretty good and assembly went well, no misalignments or incorrect parts. NOTE: You will need to do both a manual calibration requiring adjusting the leveling plate knobs a few rounds on each corner and a Z-axis offset on the touchscreen settings, as well as auto calibration. Watch the YouTube videos on how to do this as the manual included is pretty thin. The printer comes with a full set of manuals and videos on a SD card. It also comes with 2 SLT objects you can print, a USB-SD Card adapter and some tools for cleaning and changing the print head. It comes with .5kg of white PLA material. The base plate is heated. It takes about 2-3 min. to warm up the plate and head. The Creality slicer software takes the SLT files and converts them to G-code for the printer to work. It automatically puts in purge routes before laying the part beads. Which means any strings left around the print head get laid outside your print area. Then the printer does a few loops around your part before laying the first layers. You can adjust most of the settings on the touchscreen. The machine is fairly quiet and appears solid/well built.

I've been using the SW240 as my primary display for a little over two months and I love it. If you bought or are considering buying this display, you are likely a photographer who is interested in producing digital or print images that match the subjects that you captured or in the way that intend them to be seen. The display is connected to my Dell XPS 15 laptop. The primary use is for photo editing and printing using mostly Lightroom and Photoshop. It is the perfect size to fit into the hutch sitting on my desk. BenQ recommends that you calibrate the monitor using their included Palette Master Element software. Results of calibration using the software coordinate with the display's hardware calibration to provide well balanced images. A supported colorimeter is needed. I use a datacolor Spyder X Pro. Other brands are supported, like Calibrite, and are available from B&H. You can consult your B&H expert to get you an appropriate one for your system. A typical display condition is that it comes out of the box too bright. If you print, with or without soft proofing, the resulting printed image is typically too dark. To counteract this I set the brightness/luminance to 80 cd/m2 from the default 120 through the Advanced then Profiling workflow options in the software. I leave the other settings at the default values and then proceed with calibration and validation. There was a noticeable difference of test images printed pre and post calibration. Post calibration prints were better than precalibration prints. This display, after calibration and soft proofing with the correct printer and paper profiles, provides the best rendered prints that I have made.

I purchased two of these and am so happy with them. Being able to get a handle on color is catapulting my photo editing results. I've already re-edited some of my old photos that were disappointments using my old monitors. They're no longer disappointments. At 2k and 144 Hz with 10 bit color, this monitor is perfect for photo editing. I had read a couple of reviews that said that the calibration wasn't perfect, but for me it is spot on. I edit mainly for print but also for display on the internet and one thing that I know is that if you calibrate for internet you will be off for print, and vice-versa. I haven't done anything with the calibration and I am getting great results for whatever output I chose. Have uploaded the first image that I edited on the ProArt monitors. I am going to be purchasing two more, for my wife's computer.

During printer calibration I wondered why my print doesn't look like what I see on my (calibrated) monitor. One of the issues -- as the knowledgeable sales person pointed out -- is that a monitor is bright but that the light under which I looked at the print is usually not bright or accurate. Not only does this well-build light help me (and my customers) view the print as it should be viewed, this is also a great light for photographing small electronic projects with the included diffuser. The touch-sensitive switches for brightness and color temperature are well designed.

Pros: Easy to use; refill filament, print 3D files, wireless is convenient, and non heating bed. A great value for a 3D Printer. Cons; purchasing expensive filament through XYZPRINTING. Not able to purchase 3rd party filament due to NFC chip.

This is my second 3d printer. It is a fabulous printer the build size is limiting. The performance and print quality are spectacular. Very quiet also.

Love it. Easy to use; decent print quality. This is my first 3D printer and I am totally new to 3D printing. Glad I bought this as my first one as entry level.

The 3D40 Flex 3D print is my first 3D printer. It was easy to set up and bed leveling was extremely easy even for a beginner. It can be connected to the computer with WIFI, USB, or Ethernet. The flexible table makes part removal easy. I've used this printer more than I thought I would before I purchased it. I've been able to create things easily using free software. Dremel provides free slicing software, but I did opt to purchase Simply 3D, which has built-in defaults for my printer. My daughter now calls me a Craft Geek.

My first 3D printer and I love it. The instructions are clear and it is easy to assemble out of the box. There are a ton of youtube videos on this printer so this has helped me a lot. What I found most valuable is to make sure you FIRST mechanically flatten the bed and then do the auto-leveling. I do an auto-leveling before each print because every time I remove a previous print I fear it moves the adjustment. Remember we are printing ~0.12-0.2mm layer heights so I think it is important to auto-level each time. It only takes a minute or two. Also do it with the bed and nozzle at the temperature you are going to print at.