Bottom Layer Not Sticking To Print Bed

Works perfectly as advertised, my only grip is that the the bolt is 3/4 longer than what is in the image so you have a bolt sticking out the bottom of the tightening knob, not really an issue unless u plan of putting the handle down low enough to touch the floor so then the bolt with hit the floor.

Love the ability to adjust heights without the bottom sticking out to keep the camera rig leveled on flat surfaces. Build quality is great as well

This is a fairly study case. The plastic is a little thin but still protective, I imagine thats where it saves on weight. I would worry less about that when ultimately it's going to be weighed down by much of your equipment... I keep two dslr bodies and about 7 lens in it. It will fit a sigma 150-500mm (which is a fairly large lens). Definitely watch how you remove the the foam as if you only leave one cell they will eventually break apart. I changed my mind mid plucking and resulted in a few lens holes with just one cell layer surrounding a few sides. It's still adequate to protect them, but the thin wall wont hold the shape and stretch with the lens in. On another note, if you never had pluck foam case before (like me) its not cubed to the bottom, it's got a solid bottom and than you pull strips out that go completely through to that layer. (IE. no plucking the height) does include hole for locks. Great case, nice price, and and I like colors. The only thing that i could see being included is clip spots for a strap or tieing it down but i wouldn't see using it that way often.

So here's how I have mine set up. I left the bottom-most piece of foam in for cushion, and removed the 2nd layer and the pick-apart layer. Lid foam remains. In here comfortably fits: 2x 10' complete c-stands, incl all 4 grip heads and bases 2x plain ol light stands (7' or 8' can't recall) 2x softboxes ( lg octa & med strip) incl diffusers & grid 3x 33 shoot-thrus Case with brackets, misc hardware Of course if I took out the lid foam and the bottom piece of foam I could probably squeeze a couple tripods in there as well, but all my tripods are carbon and I'd really rather not... Anyway I just thought maybe you guys might want to see what it looks like fully packed out with my setup. Happy shooting!

The case is solid. A regular pelican case may be more resistant to someone trying to break a lock off. The foam is easy enough once you get the trick. Just lay down what you want to fit on top of it and leave a little extra foam in place so it is snug. The bottom most layer is a tad thin so I prefer not to dig through the second layer from the bottom. Shorter lenses fit vertically. Pelican recommends silicon desiccants to control humidity in the case. This seems like a very good idea to me.

You know what you're getting from Pelican, and that is quality. My only complaint is that the bottom layer of foam does not cover the entire base of the case, but it really shouldn't have any effect on 99% of applications.

This is great for a glossy print that I had to send out to a friend. To keep it from sticking to the glossy print, I used tissue paper to wrap the print and then it slid easily into the protector

The da Vinci Jr. 1.0 is a great bang for your buck with the decent build size of 6 x 6 x 6 inches and SD card compatibility. I printed out numerous projects so far and the print quality on this machine is fantastic. The only issues with printing is that it sometimes has trouble printing small details. However, this could be improved by changing the print settings in the XYZware, like making the extruder move at a slower rate, which decreases streaking. So, one of the most important features about this printer is its usability. Let me tell you right now, this machine will take you a while to set up properly. There isn't the three-knob calibration print bed that other 3D printers have,for this printer wants to be more approachable by maintaining a fixed, leveled print bed. The only thing you have to do is fix the Z Offset, which is the distance from the extruder nozzle to the print bed. This is the only calibration you have to do but it can be tricky getting it right the first few times. Unfortunately, not all of these printers were made the same, one printer could be printing excellent at .90mm offset, but mine functions the best around 1.65mm offset. This printer does 100 to 400 microns, and the infill and speed are all adjustable in the XYZware. I've printed out some quick decorations for my desk, but I've also spent a few hours printing out this model of the Statue of Liberty at excellent quality (100 microns) and slow speed at a 30% infill. The quality of the model was amazing. Overall, the 3D printer was hard, even frustrating at times to set up properly, but once it gets going it produces some of the best prints I've ever seen.

My first 3D printer and I love it. The instructions are clear and it is easy to assemble out of the box. There are a ton of youtube videos on this printer so this has helped me a lot. What I found most valuable is to make sure you FIRST mechanically flatten the bed and then do the auto-leveling. I do an auto-leveling before each print because every time I remove a previous print I fear it moves the adjustment. Remember we are printing ~0.12-0.2mm layer heights so I think it is important to auto-level each time. It only takes a minute or two. Also do it with the bed and nozzle at the temperature you are going to print at.

Very easy setup. Took 10-15 minutes. The magnetic bed it has is awesome. Just flick the print once its cool and comes right off. Print quality is nice and faster than what i had. Mine came with the camera , which is less trips to the workshop. Creality cloud is nice can slice and upload remotely and even start a print from my phone. Lastly the auto off function is nice for those prints that finish overnight or while i am away. Love it worth every cent