Connect Switch Pro Controller To Pc Without Bluetooth

this works to connect my PC with bluetooth headset

I use this controller with my PC via bluetooth and it works great. It’s a huge upgrade from my wired 360 controller. It’s slimmer, the texture is better and all the buttons feel and are quieter. A note to PC users, make sure to disable power management for whatever bluetooth adapter you are using or it will create connectivity issues with this controller and any other bluetooth devices.

For the money this camera does what I want it to. I can't get it to connect to my PC on Bluetooth but it connects to my phone and then I transfer from the phone to the computer.

Great loudspeaker to connect to my Pro-ject turntable via Bluetooth

Simple way to add Bluetooth to my PC to connect to true wireless earbuds for web conferencing. The range allows moving around the office without loosing the PC-earbud link. It links quickly and holds its link firmly.

I bought this to use with a projector to connect with a soundbar via Bluetooth. It works great. I like the on / off switch. I have a separate Airfly adapter that I take with me on flights that does not have the switch and I much having the switch so I know when the device is on vs off.

Netgear Gigabit 8 port switch is very useful. I have two of them at home, I use one of them inside my media console to connect my Apple TV, PS3, Receiver, VOIP phone, media center PC etc to the network. I use the other switch inside the central panel where I use it connect the Ethernet outlets across all other rooms including our office room. I have been using one of these switches for more than 1 year. For my home use, I am pretty happy with it. When I conducted some speed test, I was able to get upto 50MB/s data transfer rate, between my iMac and and HP PC.

This switch takes two input 3.5mm (1/8) stereo jacks and converts them to one output. One of my inputs (A) is from the soundcard in my PC; the other input (B) is from the headphones port on my combination HDTV/Monitor. I could connect my headphones to this A/B switch's output, but I connect a headphones amplifier to it (saves strain on my PC's power supply unit). When I want to use my headphones for miscellaneous purposes with my PC, I have the A/B switch set to A. When I want to use my headphones to watch movies with my Blu-ray player and my HDTV/Monitor, I have the A/B switch set to B. All three cables, two inputs and one output, are male-to-male stereo cables which are easy to find at a number of stores. Converting the two inputs to one output, however, was not easy. Many places have Y-splitters, but they don't work for this purpose. All they do is allow you to use sets two headphones from the same source. I could use my receiver instead of the switch, but that's much too bulky for my desktop. This A/B switch from B&H is very small--about 2 x 2 x 1/2--and takes up almost no space. And its a no-brainer to connect and use. Of course I could simply disconnect and connect my headphones back and forth between my PC and my HDTV/Monitor, but that wears down connectors and connections. Also it is much more convenient to just flip the toggle on the switch.

I bought the Bose QC35 wireless headphones and could not connect to my older Mac Pro. Turns out the Bose QC35 required Bluetooth 4.x, and the Mac Pro has Bluetooth 2.1. So I bought this adapter and it worked like a charm. I can now connect to my iPhone 6S and switch to the Mac Pro easily.

I have this switch set up to allow me to switch between a Retina MacBook Pro and my tower gaming PC with Nvidia GTX 1070 graphics card, and it performs the job very well. Previously I had a similar setup using an IOGear DVI+USB KVM switch between MacBook Pro and my older tower PC, with just a DVI-to-DisplayPort adapter on the video cable to the Mac. For the new setup I bought a DisplayPort-to-mini-DisplayPort cable for the Mac (could have used an adapter but the cable was $10 and it's less... lumpy... this way.) I've only been using it for a week or so, but it's working great! Comes with all cables, which seem to be solid quality, and fully bus-powered - small and light but seems well made. The older IOGear DVI+USB2 switch wasn't as expensive as this when it was new, but I guess that's the price I pay for going 4K. I did my usual research on all available DisplayPort + USB switch options before selecting this one, and I'm pretty sure I made the right choice here. If you're trying to drive a 2K or 4K monitor from two DisplayPort-equipped machines and share a mouse and keyboard between them, this is the ticket.