Drill Bit Drawer Organizer

Go to your garage and get your drill. Use a very small bit--up to you. Drill 2 holes about 5 or 6 mm apart close to the edge of the cap. Breakdown and spend 3 or 4 dollars for a lanyard (for sale here at B&H) thread it and your good to go! I've done this to every cap on every lens I own---it works!!

I really like the organizer, but it has been mentioned before, there are two of the screw mounts you should pre-drill (lower left, lower center). The others are not trouble to drive the screw in.

I didn't use the divider kit in a Pelican case, but rather as an organizer for my camera gear in an existing drawer. The flexibility of the kit really allowed me to get everything exactly as I wanted.

It's a drawer.

Work well. Needed to modify length a bit, and worked well. Had to cut and drill new holes with perfect outcome.

Provides a tight, securely locked connection with the female powerCon connecter. I use these to power network equipment installed in a Pelican case. Neutrik has CAD dxf and pdf drawings on their site if you need to drill holes in a surface for installation. I used their drawings to make a 3D printed stencil/jig for this purpose. For the screw holes, I use a 1/8 drill bit for machine screws w/ nuts, but go smaller if using a pointed/self-tapping screw. For the main entrance hole, I start with a 1/8 bit for a pilot hole, widen it with a 1/2 bit, then finally bore it all the way out with a 22mm step bit which makes a perfectly sized hole for this connector. For screws, M3 countersink (90deg) are an exact flush fit in the connector housing. I use black oxide screws to match the connector. The backside conductor tabs snap right into female quick connect terminals. I use the heat-shrink solder terminals and they stay on pretty well. If you need it to be really secure, consider soldering the terminals onto the tabs , but be careful not to melt the plastic!

This TV mount came well packaged and it of excellent build quality, not much more to be desired at this price point. The instructions were clear and all the mounting hardware needed was included, except for the 1/4 in drill bit. Do note that the hole needs to be 3.5 in deep in order to accommodate the beefy bolts they provide in the kit. The drill bit I had was barely adequate and I needed to back it out of the chuck to finish the hole to the right depth. The unit installed without issues and feels extremely solid. The movements are firm but smooth. Very pleased with the results. I am using it for a 40 TV though so it's not putting much stress on the hardware.

Very happy with the quality of this product. Very strong and operates smoothly. I installed it to a brick fireplace. The instructions say use the provided paper template to mark the locations of the holes to be drilled in the brick. I found that the vertical spacing between the top set of holes and the bottom set of holes needs to be VERY precise. I found that it's easy for the drill bit to "wander" a little bit when drilling on the marks into the rough brick face the fireplace has. Drifting a bit side to side was not a problem. Drifting a bit up or down was a problem lining up with the bracket. I ended up drilling two top holes and then temporarily mounting the bracket to those holes, then used the bracket itself to locate the remaining holes on the top and bottom. I used a smaller drill bit to create starter holes, then removed the bracket and finished drilling the holes with the correct size drill bit. A little extra work but the holes lined up perfectly with the bracket and it's rock solid.

It packed with several sizes of screws (for TV), stub mount screws and a drill bit for wall mounting. But it doesn't come with any drywall mount accessories. You will need drywall anchor and screws if you mount on drywall. There's lots of video on YouTube. Check it out.

You know the drill, this is a standard barer.