Freestyle Lite Meter Manual

I was tired of lots of pieces, batteries, fiddly connections, etc., so I bought Elinchrom strobes (ELC Pro 2-light kit, used D-lite 400 2 light kit, used D-lite single 200) with the receiver built in. I had an old Sekonic Flashmate that just stopped working. So I spent the money and bought the L-4578DR-U-EL. It was a perfect purchase. It is easy to use both for measuring and for quickly changing light levels and quickly measuring individual groups. I haven't bought the spot attachment, but I may to measure the background to make it easier to set the light for different levels of gray or for white. Extremely happy with this meter. It comes with a slide in case that works fine for me. I keep cameras, lenses, light meter in a backpack case and it all works well.

It has worked flawlessly since I got it. It seems more accurate than my last meter. I've had a Sekonic Digi Lite F, L-328 for about 30 Years, so if this one holds up half as well as that one did, I'll be very happy.

this one is a lot newer than any light meter i had used previously. i admit i did not read the manual but after some tinkering was able to figure it out pretty quickly. highly recommend as it seems to be meter pretty accurately and seems to be durable.

I absolutly LOVE this meter. It has helped me understand light much better. Manual Exposure rules! I HIGHLY reccomend this meter

I purchased this lens to do 3D virtual real estate tours with my DSLR for superior quality on higher end listings, rather than my 360 camera for quick & dirty tours. The lens is razor sharp, and my stitching software has a lens profile for it, saving much time in my workflow. Bear in mind this is a manual focus AND exposure lens with a dedicated aperture ring, and no electronic contacts. You focus manually, AND you set the APERTURE ON THE LENS, a la 1987 and prior. Again, if you shoot Nikon, this won't be much different than what you're used to. Your DSLR (at least a Canon) won't know what aperture it's set at, so it will read 0.0 on the camera. So even when manually setting the aperture, you can't use the internal light meter on the camera. You will need to (a) meter with a separate handheld meter; (b) take test shots and chimp; or (c) wing it. Not as difficult as it sounds, especially if you have a decent eye for exposure. While this lens isn't a bank-breaker, it's not super cheap either. With the no frills features, it's obvious they channeled all of the price into the optics and build quality, both of which are outstanding for the price (fisheyes are not cheap to make). If you can deal with a full manual lens, I highly recommend you consider this one if you're in the market for a fisheye on a full frame.

Nice manual reflective incident light meter attaches to camera or you can strap it around your neck. Very easy to use.

I use this meter as a replacement for the meter on my old Minolta SRT MC II manual camera. I am currently a photography student who is still learning how to use a camera and I must say this meter has done wonders for me. It provides f-stops and shutter speed when pointed at the subject. I like the fact that I can have the camera on a tripod and not move the camera just to get a reading. The light meter appears to be weak, but do not let the appearance fool you. I banged it a few times and it is sturdy.

This is a nice pocket meter. It is simple to use: match the needle with the turning large dial. I have a more expensive meter also, and prefer this one. With the expensive model, there is a small computer or phone type of screen, and I often need to reread the manual in order to find the functions wanted. This meter only really has one function, and that is to meter the scene for ambient light. So I find this is exactly what I want, and there's no need to ever read the manual.

First time using a light meter. Purchased the meter for setting up flash portraits. It was necessary for me to use the on-line manual to figure out how to use the meter. The instructions that came with the meter were not much help. Like using it for flash; saves a lot of trial-and-error with better results.

A solid manual light meter. I haven’t used a light meter since my film days but ran in to a couple of situations where one would have been very handy. Best part is it doesn’t require batteries, so I can leave it in my bag and not worry it will be ready to use.