Kodak T Max 400

Film can be pricey sometimes I know. And looking at the price comparison of 5 rolls of Kodak Max 400 compared to Portra is a bit of an eye opener(x2 price at time of writing). However there are some things in life you don't compromise on and if you're shooting portraits, this is one film that is worth the cost. Send it off to a competent lab (like The FIND Lab) or even a home C-41 kit and you'll be very happy you went with Portra over Max 400. Kodak Portra 400 is a very stout, forgiving film that can handle over or underexposure without any adjusting in development (100 ISO to about 1600 ISO. Anything higher than 1600 I would extend your times). Personally my sweet spot is around 200 ISO for this film. The grain structure is phenomenal, especially for a higher ISO film compared to the others out there. I feel its only competition would be Fuji Pro 400H, which is another wonderful film (providing Fuji doesn't get rid of it like countless others). While I wouldn't use this film for an every day film (you could if you have the funds), it has cemented a spot in my bag when I shoot for clients since I can rely on it in basically any kind of situation and it always comes out (I'd still use a trusted light meter though).

If you are a begginer and you are looking to take some color photos the Kodak Ultra Max 400 is the best option as it is easy to make great photos with it. Giving you that vintage look. This comes more into the warmer side and it is great if you want to experiment with it. Highly recommend buying from B&H as the keep their rolls stored in cold conditions giving you the assurance that they are good to go and use.

I normally shoot Portra film, but will use Kodak Gold Max 400 for casual shooting. The 400 is a good all purpose speed. I find the colors are accurate and it scans well in my film scanner. It is not as saturated as the VC Portra film, but is a fine product for the price.

I use it for Kodak T-Max 400 medium format films using the minimal agitation method. It does a beautiful job: fine grains and nice gradients. A bit sensitive for the way of agitation: too speedy rotation might result uneven development. I buy this dry version so I can be sure about the date from which the shelf life is counted.

Kodak still makes the best films and t-max films are are my favorite.

Kodak Tri-X 400 120 is my go-to film stock. Brilliant film, a classic.

I have usually used Tri-X, and it is an excellent film, but I am very pleased with the results I obtained using T-Max 400.

Even in this digital age I still love shooting B&W film. Nothing else looks like it and Kodak's T Max is exceptional. I used this in my dad's old Kodak Duaflex IV from 1962 and the film preformed flawlessly. I will and do recommend this to anyone who share's a love for B&W film photography.

I flip flop between B&W films. The more I shoot, the more I am discovering film's nuances. But I think I have finally landed on Acros as my go-to 100 speed film for landscapes and portraiture. It has a super fine grain that is comparable to Kodak T-Max which helps to showcase the natural texures in landscapes and skintones. But the big difference between those two films is Acros seems to handle highlights much better. Some may call it flat contrast but since I started darkroom printing, the flatter, less contrasty films like Acros have made it a breeze to work with in the darkroom. I'm not doing extensive dodging and burning or fiddling around with multigrade contrast filters to control shadows and highlights. There's a good amount of density on the negative for my photo paper to work with. Does it look as contrasty as T-Max in a scan? No, probably not. But photographic film is designed to be printed with, not scanned, and Fuji wins here. Printing from Kodak negatives have proven to be challenging so Fuji wins here. In addition to all that, it also has a ridiculously long reciprocity failure. The longest of any film on the market at 120 seconds! This makes it even more of a joy to use for landscapes because I don't have to do math to figure out my exposure once it goes past half a second. I have two glorious minutes before reciprocity failure becomes an issue and I've never needed more time than that to do the photography I do. I've never seen a need to push Acros, as I get great results without having to do so. It seems this is best shot at box speed. The photos I included feature the long exposure capabilities and the fine grain. They were all shot at box speed and developed in Kodak T-Max developer for 5:30 minutes with agitation every minute. I have fallen back in love with Acros recently and look forward to shooting with it more going forward.

Kodak T-Max 100 film has an extremely fine grain and produces consistent results. If you're going to make enlargements, I can think of no better black and white film.