Natural Gas Leak Detector For Hot Water Heater

I have used Eneloop rechargeable batteries for a few years and they are excellent and durable. I used it on a gas water heater that needs batteries to create the spark that ignites it. I was unsure if it would work, it works perfect.

We have a thermo pump for a/c and heater and a propane heater/water....easy to install, to configure etc....self learning is very dependable....the best part is that you can control the temperature from afar with the Nest app....We love our Nest thermostat!!

I have purchased the Life Saver Bag hoping to lighten my load when I traveled to a location for a shoot. I was going to return it thinking it wasn't going to work well. I am so glad that I kept it. You can use water or sand to fill up the Life Saver. I have chose to use water. I would fill up the life saver at the location and dump the water out afterwards making it easier for me to move it around. If there is no running water at the location, I will fill the Life Saver with water before leaving and put it in to a small plastic box just incase it does decide to leak and then I dump the water out afterwards. So far I had this Life Saver for about a year and have not had it leak on me yet. I use the bag to stabilize my c-stand for my wireless strobe. Couldn't be happier.

Here is the most important thing you will need to know... IT WORKS! Putting your 5D Mark III into a body of water with a $2500 dollar lens and a flash does not feel natural in any way the first time you ease it into the water. But life is life and if it was going to leak I was going to find out the hard way, It did not leak. Humidity packets that came with it got rid of fog. The only tricky thing is that you really need to dial in your settings before getting in there, or use it on full auto. I shoot in Pools in Manual and it worked fine with a bit of going back and adjusting settings again. Direct flash looks terrible underwater as it does above water, so I am still not sure I will use flash again for my underwater needs. Great thing is I can turn flash on and off through the housing anyways so, not a big deal to have there just in case. The plastic does warp your lcd image and makes it look cloudy, the first time I thought everything looked terrible until I took it out of the thick plastic housing. Bottom line, this works, and the company that makes it guarantees your gear in case of manufacturing failure. KEEP YOUR RECEIPT!

While I don’t have much experience with paper other than Epson’s and Canon’s, so I am not sure what to compare them to, I do like this paper a lot, in some applications. I have tried Epson’s Hot Press and Cold Press, both natural and bright, Velvet, and all the high end photo papers. Each was particularly good in certain applications. Hard to describe which for what, particularly that I think it’s pretty subjective. But, one does develop a preference by experimenting. I don’t print as frequently as to justify having several opened boxes of all these papers, so I decided to stick with the 2 I liked best: Hot Press Natural, and Exhibition Fiber. Very generally speaking, I use Hot Press Natural when shooting art, sculpture, and things that have “texture.” I prefer Exhibition Fiber for seascapes, landscapes, people ...

I have been using Epson Hot Press Natural (HPN) for several years now and love it, especially for being archival, but it is quite expensive.  I am retired now and and needed to economize, and a friend told me about Epsons Double Sided Matte.  It is very affordable and the blacks that I am getting on my R3000 printer are very nice.  The base is whiter (less yellow) than the Hot Press Natural.  The only disadvantage to the the Double Sided Matte is that it is probably not as archival as the HPN, but then Ive never sold a print anyway so that doesnt bother me anymore.  And the fact I can proof print on both sides make it very economical, but then I seem to get it right the first time when soft proofing with this paper more now than when I used the yellow HPN.  I am very happy with this paper.  I am surprised that a cheaper Epson paper is this good.

I usually use exhibition fiber for most of my prints. But recently for some abstract work, I used Epson Hot Press Natural. The natural means a warm toned matte paper.

I avoided trying this paper until very recently. I was very happy with Epson Hot Press Natural and didn't like the price of the Legacy Etching. But I wanted to test other papers and bought a box. It's now my favorite paper. I currently print with an Epson 7890 and using the Epson profile, the edge goes to Etching. The differences are subtle, primarily in the shadow detail, but it's enough to warrant the price difference, to me.

I use the Epson Hot Press Natural (all cut sizes up to 17x22) for most of my fine art prints. The paper is slightly warm toned and smooth, and has great detail sharpness and color range. It prints well in my Epson 3880 through the rear manual load tray. Handling is much better than other matte fine art papers I've used. It does not flake, so I have found I don't need to brush or blow off the surface prior to printing, and the surface is more durable after printing.

I purchased sample packages of Epson Signature Worthy and Legacy papers to evaluate and compare the differences between the papers. After printing identical color and monochrome images on my Epson P900 printer using Epson ICC profiles and comparing the results of the papers, I discovered (to my surprise) that they all looked the same. The primary differences noted were; that some of the papers had a semi-gloss finish (Exhibition Fiber and Ultra Premium Luster), others were matte (Hot Press Bright, Hot Press Natural, Cold Press Bright, Cold Press Natural and Velvet Fine Art) as well as the papers thickness, composition, and tonality showed some variance. I would strongly suggest that printers do a comparison and then determine which paper(s) would suit their needs. The sample packs are the best way to do these comparisons at a reasonable price.