Novatek Rear View Mirror Camera User Manual

Rear curtain flash is a function of the camera, not the flash. The flash only does what the camera tells it to do. In your Nikon user manual look under Flash Sync. for instructions for the various sync modes. Sunpak wouldn't know to make an inferior product. I have been using them for a long time and never hesitated to buy an upgraded version.

These radios are amazing. Installed in my Jeep above my rear view mirror and I am stoked about it. It’s small enough to not be in the way but is great for communicating with fellow Jeep’s. I used the ghost antenna so that it didn’t get wiped out by limbs on the trail. I’m thinking of purchasing the 6db antenna to help increase my range. I feel you can’t go wrong with this radio! Will be purchasing another for my sons Jeep.

A very good mirror lens with manual focus

This is my second dash camera from Garmin. I use it for a rear view. The size is phenomenal. It doesn't attract attention. Very good software. Voice commands are very well designed and functional. It syncs with the front camera and works very well with the parking cable. The image quality is pretty good.. Higher resolution would require a lot more disk space.

It's made out of plastic if that bothers you. I use my camera's rear LCD monitor constantly for fine manual focusing. I'm grateful to have this product so I use the monitor in the bright sun. The magnification really helps with focusing too.

In the mid-1980s I bought a Nikon 7.5mm f5.6 circular fisheye. Being an older design (1966) its rear elements protruded into the mirror box. Fortunately my F3 had a hard physical mirror lockup. The external viewfinder for this lens attached to the camera on the original Nikon F/F2’s proprietary flash shoe. I was able to buy an AS-3 flash adapter for the F3. With the F3s mirror locked up I also had to use an hand-held light meter. With amazing depth of foield focusing was never an issue. The old zoom lens had six filters on a wheel. One was a skylight and the other five were strongly colored for B&W film. While I liked the circular results, using the lens was a hassle. I often had my shoes or forehead in the picture. On a sunny day, my images suffered from solar flares. My new Nikon 8-15mm AF-S fisheye has none of those old problems. It fits on my DSLRs without any problem. It doesn’t need an external finder or separate light meter. At the 8mm setting (and lens hood off) I get a circular image very much like the vintage fisheye. The new lens is faster and focusable. Like my 14mm f2.8 Nikkor, this zoom uses gel filters inserted in the rear of the lens. I really don’t like this arrangement. This fisheye is similar in weight and size to the 14mm lens. I am also not fond of the electronic aperture control first seen on G lenses. Without an aperture ring one cannot use this zoom on older cameras. At the longer end of the zoom range (12-15mm) the image fills the (FX) frame and lens hood stays out of the way. This image is similar to my inexpensive Bower (Samyang?) 8mm fisheye with its fixed lens hood (and DX coverage). So far I haven’t used my new lens much but I think I will like it.

As a landscape photographer / view camera user for over 20 years, I really appreciate the perspective control offered by this lens. It is really a plus in many situations. IN addition, this lens is very sharp and delivers great performance overall. I previously owned the the 16-35mm F/2.8L II and this 17mm offers performance superior to the zoom. My favorite way to use this lens is to head out into the field with a 5D Mark II and a 7D. Depending on the shot I am after, I have a 17mm or a 28mm to work with. Most useful and very impressive results.

I bought this filter for taking pictures of the sun during the August eclipse. I took it outside the other day to practice and see exactly how it would work. I am using a Canon EOS 70D with a Canon 100-400mm lens and 1.4 Extender. I used the Live View feature on the camera with manual focus. The camera's ability to magnify the focus area was a great feature. My camera did not like to autofocus on the sun so manual focus was the rule. The magnification made it easy to get a proper focus. The filter worked great. I have some other things that I want to try with the filter. I had read reviews that said that some of the filters do not screw into the lenses very well. This one fits very well, probably better than any other filter I have. This filter is NOT approved for direct viewing of the sun, you have to use Live View.

This is a great little camera.� A top feature is that�it has a screen and a viewfinder both with live view.� The live view has an exposure histogram and electronic level (it also has a grid view in playback mode).� The other cool feature is an option to see what's in focus.� I set mine to bright red - so when I press manual focus the lines in focus are bright red then I� can flip back to auto focus or take the shot in manual focus.� �RAW is a big plus in my book.� Here are some shots using the 55-200 resized from RAW to 1200 x 800.� � https://photos.app.goo.gl/8w8V3lbK7Qn1mhvg1

Best used for Architecture, some usefulness for Landscape if you need to Scheimpflug. If you don't know this word you don't need this lens. Best way to correct perspective while putting camera a right level to record scene. Next best thing to a view camera. Good: Great optics, sharp, contrasty and easy to understand. Outstanding build and overall excellent piece of glass on a D800. There is remarkably little distortion for a 24mm lens. Electronic stop down function is clever and helpful. The movements are surprisingly extensive. I rarely have need of tilt function. Not perfect: Slight barrel distortion easily corrected in your raw editor. Knobs are small but if larger would interfere with camera body and certain movements. I classify this as a concession to reality. There is some vignetting at maximum shift at wide apertures but I've rarely needed that much shift on assignment. Stuff you'll want to know: This has manual focus and manual aperture setting. On this lens you set the aperture but focus and compose wide open, the camera (most of them, check compatibility chart) stoops down at shutter release. On the older version of the PC lens (the one without tilt) it was easy to forget to twist the aperture ring after composing and focusing. Few current DSLRs have view finders designed for manual focus. They are small and dim compared to film SLRs of yore. You'll need plenty of light for accurate focus. However, at 24mm inherent depth of field of the optic is great so you won't find it impossible to get acceptable focus if you stop down a couple of stops.