Pcb Rear View Mirror Cam Circuit Board

These radios are amazing. Installed in my Jeep above my rear view mirror and I am stoked about it. It’s small enough to not be in the way but is great for communicating with fellow Jeep’s. I used the ghost antenna so that it didn’t get wiped out by limbs on the trail. I’m thinking of purchasing the 6db antenna to help increase my range. I feel you can’t go wrong with this radio! Will be purchasing another for my sons Jeep.

This rear cam is small enough to not interfere with your view out your back window. The picture quality is great!!!

Night and day difference between this and an all circuit board pre... nice and mellow even before it hits the DAW.

I decided to retire my first warthog throttle after having to replace the main circuit board and noticing how much wear the internals have suffered over the years of daily use. The original still operates well, but it is getting pretty loose in its advance age. These units are built like a bag of hammers, robust and tough. I do really appreciate the upgrade to the slew control over the old design.

This is a great tripod! I've already used it for both a product shoot (printed circuit board) and test equipment screens at work, and took photos of the family at Thanksgiving. The latches are stiff, but should insure a good sturdy support for my camera. The horizontal arm worked great for Macro work. I also have their monopod, a great 'pod for my walks.

I bought this for providing audio during film shoots. The design seems really tough, all metal construction. Looks like something that could be dropped on the floor a few times and still keep working. Good clean amps, but not a huge amount of gain. A few very minor critiques: uses AAA batteries ( I would have preferred AA as everything else on set uses AA), case is easy to open with ballpoint pin but can be put on backwards and then does not quite lock when closed (either make it impossible to put on backwards or it should lock when on backwards), two internal circuit board switches (mono/stereo and low/high power mode) the low/high power switch is hidden and not easily visible. It is a little awkward to have to access circuit board switches to adjust these settings. Overall very happy with the product.

This is a solid piece of equipment. It is slightly difficult to install the clip without damaging the circuit board inside, but definitely not impossible.

Brother Toner works well in Brother printers; however, OTC generic brands at a much reduced price also work well. That said, there is one application that one requires original Brother toner. That is printing on blue transfer sheets for making printed circuit board etching masks. In this process, one inserts a sheet of blue transfer paper in the Brother printer, and prints the line and land pattern 1:1 scale, on the blue transfer, and then irons the transfer on copper printed circuit board at 300 F. This transfer process does NOT work with generic toner because characteristics of toner fusion and density differ from Brother. Transferred generic media is thin (not dense) and adheres poorly, whereas Brother toner works wonderfully.

All my vehicles have front and rear cameras. I wouldn't have any less. Quality is as good as the front cam.

In the mid-1980s I bought a Nikon 7.5mm f5.6 circular fisheye. Being an older design (1966) its rear elements protruded into the mirror box. Fortunately my F3 had a hard physical mirror lockup. The external viewfinder for this lens attached to the camera on the original Nikon F/F2’s proprietary flash shoe. I was able to buy an AS-3 flash adapter for the F3. With the F3s mirror locked up I also had to use an hand-held light meter. With amazing depth of foield focusing was never an issue. The old zoom lens had six filters on a wheel. One was a skylight and the other five were strongly colored for B&W film. While I liked the circular results, using the lens was a hassle. I often had my shoes or forehead in the picture. On a sunny day, my images suffered from solar flares. My new Nikon 8-15mm AF-S fisheye has none of those old problems. It fits on my DSLRs without any problem. It doesn’t need an external finder or separate light meter. At the 8mm setting (and lens hood off) I get a circular image very much like the vintage fisheye. The new lens is faster and focusable. Like my 14mm f2.8 Nikkor, this zoom uses gel filters inserted in the rear of the lens. I really don’t like this arrangement. This fisheye is similar in weight and size to the 14mm lens. I am also not fond of the electronic aperture control first seen on G lenses. Without an aperture ring one cannot use this zoom on older cameras. At the longer end of the zoom range (12-15mm) the image fills the (FX) frame and lens hood stays out of the way. This image is similar to my inexpensive Bower (Samyang?) 8mm fisheye with its fixed lens hood (and DX coverage). So far I haven’t used my new lens much but I think I will like it.