Rear View Mirror Power Cord Cut

These radios are amazing. Installed in my Jeep above my rear view mirror and I am stoked about it. It’s small enough to not be in the way but is great for communicating with fellow Jeep’s. I used the ghost antenna so that it didn’t get wiped out by limbs on the trail. I’m thinking of purchasing the 6db antenna to help increase my range. I feel you can’t go wrong with this radio! Will be purchasing another for my sons Jeep.

I purchased this case to house a 3U Mackie DL32R audio interface/recorder and it is perfect for this application.  I mounted a wireless router on top of the Mackie and also mounted a power strip in the rear to power the Mackie and the router.   I then routed the power strip power cord from the rear up through the unused 1U area.  When in use, I keep the rear cover on  and position the unit vertically on the rear cover.  I remove the cover on the top end and pull out the power cord plug  end and plug it into an outlet to power the Mackie and router.   This also allows access to the I/O connectors on the front panel of the Mackie.  When finished, I tuck the power cord inside the spare 1U area, replace the top cover, and wheel it away.

I finally cut the cord. I like the Streaming Stick+ very much, the signal is strong and this is the only remote I need. Power and volume control are on the Roku remote.

Sung fit on my XR-18 mixer. Wish it had cut-out for power cord. As it is, mixer must be completely removed from bag to plug in AC power. Still, it's great protection for the mixer - nothing else like it is available. I've bought 2 of these.

This little unite cut my cord with cable

In the mid-1980s I bought a Nikon 7.5mm f5.6 circular fisheye. Being an older design (1966) its rear elements protruded into the mirror box. Fortunately my F3 had a hard physical mirror lockup. The external viewfinder for this lens attached to the camera on the original Nikon F/F2’s proprietary flash shoe. I was able to buy an AS-3 flash adapter for the F3. With the F3s mirror locked up I also had to use an hand-held light meter. With amazing depth of foield focusing was never an issue. The old zoom lens had six filters on a wheel. One was a skylight and the other five were strongly colored for B&W film. While I liked the circular results, using the lens was a hassle. I often had my shoes or forehead in the picture. On a sunny day, my images suffered from solar flares. My new Nikon 8-15mm AF-S fisheye has none of those old problems. It fits on my DSLRs without any problem. It doesn’t need an external finder or separate light meter. At the 8mm setting (and lens hood off) I get a circular image very much like the vintage fisheye. The new lens is faster and focusable. Like my 14mm f2.8 Nikkor, this zoom uses gel filters inserted in the rear of the lens. I really don’t like this arrangement. This fisheye is similar in weight and size to the 14mm lens. I am also not fond of the electronic aperture control first seen on G lenses. Without an aperture ring one cannot use this zoom on older cameras. At the longer end of the zoom range (12-15mm) the image fills the (FX) frame and lens hood stays out of the way. This image is similar to my inexpensive Bower (Samyang?) 8mm fisheye with its fixed lens hood (and DX coverage). So far I haven’t used my new lens much but I think I will like it.

Amazing power cord!

It's a power cord, and it works.

The picture is excellent and the wifi allows me to cut the cord to cable!

Bought this a couple of months ago to finally cut the cord!