Rear View Mirror Tool

These radios are amazing. Installed in my Jeep above my rear view mirror and I am stoked about it. It’s small enough to not be in the way but is great for communicating with fellow Jeep’s. I used the ghost antenna so that it didn’t get wiped out by limbs on the trail. I’m thinking of purchasing the 6db antenna to help increase my range. I feel you can’t go wrong with this radio! Will be purchasing another for my sons Jeep.

In the mid-1980s I bought a Nikon 7.5mm f5.6 circular fisheye. Being an older design (1966) its rear elements protruded into the mirror box. Fortunately my F3 had a hard physical mirror lockup. The external viewfinder for this lens attached to the camera on the original Nikon F/F2’s proprietary flash shoe. I was able to buy an AS-3 flash adapter for the F3. With the F3s mirror locked up I also had to use an hand-held light meter. With amazing depth of foield focusing was never an issue. The old zoom lens had six filters on a wheel. One was a skylight and the other five were strongly colored for B&W film. While I liked the circular results, using the lens was a hassle. I often had my shoes or forehead in the picture. On a sunny day, my images suffered from solar flares. My new Nikon 8-15mm AF-S fisheye has none of those old problems. It fits on my DSLRs without any problem. It doesn’t need an external finder or separate light meter. At the 8mm setting (and lens hood off) I get a circular image very much like the vintage fisheye. The new lens is faster and focusable. Like my 14mm f2.8 Nikkor, this zoom uses gel filters inserted in the rear of the lens. I really don’t like this arrangement. This fisheye is similar in weight and size to the 14mm lens. I am also not fond of the electronic aperture control first seen on G lenses. Without an aperture ring one cannot use this zoom on older cameras. At the longer end of the zoom range (12-15mm) the image fills the (FX) frame and lens hood stays out of the way. This image is similar to my inexpensive Bower (Samyang?) 8mm fisheye with its fixed lens hood (and DX coverage). So far I haven’t used my new lens much but I think I will like it.

This works well as a head strap but it also works if you want to use it to wrap around something that may be easily scratched. This could mean the side view mirror of a car or maybe just to wrap around your pet. Over all, this product is one to have handy.

This rear cam is small enough to not interfere with your view out your back window. The picture quality is great!!!

This is my second dash camera from Garmin. I use it for a rear view. The size is phenomenal. It doesn't attract attention. Very good software. Voice commands are very well designed and functional. It syncs with the front camera and works very well with the parking cable. The image quality is pretty good.. Higher resolution would require a lot more disk space.

I have always been a fan of a blacked out rear so the Trij HD's have been my go to. The new HD XR's do the same thing with the added benefit of a better view of your intended target. B&H had the best price with quick shipping. Have continually been pleased with their service and pricing!

We rarely use the rear LCD and use the view finder most of the time. This makes viewing it much easier in bright sunlight and just snaps on to the camera. It will get in the way of your rear LCD. Works with our Sony A77 II. ~photosbymeta

I've come across two lenses with rear elements scratched badly because owners used screwdrivers instead of this tool. This is a must-have tool if you own one of the older Hasselblad film cameras. Because of the way the tool is made (it has two sides: for lens and body), it's harder to use than a screwdriver with a handle. Nonetheless, using this tool, you are unlikely to scratch the lens if you need to unjam the body or cock the shutter. I bought two tools; one arrived a bit rusted, and B&H replaced it. Overall, I'm thrilled I found it and have it with my camera on a photo walks.

I had a bunch of 110 slides. For 110, the slides are much smaller than 35mm slides, so to view them I would have to use adapters to make the slide frame the size of 35mm slides. These 110 slides are from over 40 years ago and I wanted a convenient way to view and share them. With the Wolverine tool, I was able to view each slide, tweak the appearance if I wanted, and save each slide in a digital format (JPEG). To convert 20 slides (a typical 110 roll of film) would take about 30 minutes. This involved cleaning the Wolverine unit of any stray dust, cleaning the front and back of each slide of any stray dust, putting the slides through the Wolverine, capturing an image of each slide, then loading the 20 images from the Wolverine tool into my computer. So it was actually pretty quick considering all the steps. And the image quality came out excellent. I was very happy with the results and my 110 "slides" are now in the cloud where I can easily view them and share them with others.

Fabulous tool to have in the arsenal. And as always, the more sophisticated the tool the more sophisticated your execution must be. You need the correct aperture in bright sunlight to eliminate filter artifacts caused by the physics of ND filters. In the shade or overcast days you will find a wider window of operation. If you shoot sloppy you will get sloppy results. However if you love attention to detail and are patient this filter is an awful lot of fun. Don't forget your view finder cover for extended (2-15 minutes) exposure times in NON - Solar situations. The light entering your camera via the view finder will manifest itself as artifacts and color casts in your capture.