Switch Pro Controller Bracket

I've been using the DJI Smart Controller without a lanyard and had found it cumbersome and dangerous carrying it in my hands throughout a work day. While moving around before and after a drone flight I was forever having to sit the Smart Controller down to free up a hand to do something. I was worried I, or someone else, would step on the controller. Using this lanyard bracket with a lanyard it keeps the Smart Controller on me and off the ground at all times. While walking to and from a launch site it frees my hand to hold or do something else before/after drone flights. The build quality is great - strong and finished nicely. The screws are the correct size and work perfectly. The lanyard and power port holes are correct sizes and allow cable input with the bracket on the controller. I've had this on the Smart Controller for over six months and it works great. I'd never take it off. I'd highly recommend this product.

The switch was quickly adopted by the controller and was up and running in a few minutes.

Makes using controller software simple as plugging into switch

My Ubiquiti controller adopted and updated the switch perfectly.

We use this bracket to mount a monitor to our controller. Works great with a variety of monitors.

This is exactly what I needed for my unifi pro and switch !

Unlike F22, F21 is passive cooled. Aputure has a FREE bracket replacement program with the new low profile, sturdy bracket with a very good design. Unlike the other 1 star rating user, I find that the plastic connectors are not an issue. I have used on a feature kino airs with similar plastic connectors. Don't step on them and don't drop them. Even aluminum lemo connectors would break if you do that to them. The controller seems sturdy to me. The head lead is thick and reinforced into the panel. The only negative - the C13 connector is not locking (like most aputure connectors); make sure you shove that in the power brick. Once it was loose and I thought something was broken. The powerbrick comes with a nice bracket which connects in the v mount slot of the controller. Thus making a compact unit. I have used this light as a hair light, and as a key. At full power even diffused is plenty bright. At iso 100, shutter 1/100, I was getting T11-16 (with silk and half grid diffuser) at 1meter (3 feet roughly). I would get at least another one. Instead of one F22, I would get two F21 (I got the c model for g/m and color adjustment) - and I would connect them via a bracket to get an F22 or split them apart as needed. The F22 seems to have a high pitch fan that is louder than a Forza 500 (there was one in the store next to it, so I speak facts).

I have one of the original LC-160s and just got a 2.0 to supplement it. The LED panels appear to be similar or identical to the previous ones. On the old version, the velcro strips that connect the bracket to the panels' backing start detaching after hanging for a while (both the velcro and the adhesive, though it takes a long time), so the addition of grommets to the backing and ties to secure it to the bracket is very welcome. The new model also seems to be more tightly manufactured, as the diffuser and grid sag a lot less out of the box, at least on my unit. This wasn't a big deal on the old one but it does look much better now. I'm of two minds about the new controller: there's no more brick attached to it but it is a lot bulkier as a consequence. It's good that a clamp is included specifically to mount it. The screen and interface are functional, but fairly dated. The LEDs no longer immediately turn on after powering on the controller (there is a delay of about a second) but a dedicated blackout button is provided, which is instantaneous. One thing that I miss is dedicated output and temperature dials; you now have to press a button to select the parameter you want and turn the single dial to change it. However, I'm not going to lower the rating for that, because the old dials were admittedly too easy to turn accidentally, and the new system makes that far harder. I can't comment on connectivity options, as I've never used them.

I typically use the Nikon WR-R11b/WR-T10 Remote Controller Set to trigger the shutter on my z7ii. But it's virtually impossible to use with an L-bracket. So I purchased this wired remote release cord as a backup for those situations where I'm on a tripod with the L-bracket. Fit is still a bit tight but much better than the wireless remote controller set.

Replaced my existing firewall, dhcp controller and network switch with ubiquity controller and network switch along with 3 ubiquity access points. It was a painless installation and network speeds are much faster.