Treat 400 from dubblefilm is a daylight-balanced, color negative film that produces bright highlights. This film is well-suited for landscapes, still life, and experimental photography.

This is one 36-exposure roll of 35mm film.

Daylight-Balanced Color Negative Film    ISO 400/27° in C-41 Process    Brightened Highlights    Deep and Rich Colors

Related Questions and Answers

Q: 1. Is this film DX coded?

A: Yes, the dubblefilm Bubblegum 400 Color Film (35mm Roll Film, 36 Exposures) is DX coded.

Q: 2. What is the best filter to use to get full IR results?

A: Kodak used to make a great film called Kodak High Speed Infrared. Using a 25 A red or 87 infra red filter you could get beautiful white leaves on the trees without setting the ISO that low. The Rollei is nice film, but it's not high speed. A #87 filter will give you the most infrared look, but the ISO for the meter readings should be around 25, if not lower. Shoot a test roll and develop it and make sure to bracket at least a full stop in either direction.

Q: 3. Is this film DX coded?

A: Yes, the CineStill Film 800Tungsten Xpro C-41 Color Negative Film (35mm Roll Film, 36 Exposures) listed above is DX-coded film and will automatically set the camera's ISO setting in cameras which read DX-coded film canisters.

Q: 4. Would this film work for IR flash photography at night with an infrared flash?

A: Rollei Infrared 400 Black and White Negative Film (35mm Roll Film, 36 Exposures) is suitable for night photography with an infrared flash.

Q: 5. If you used an 850 IR filter with this film would you still get an image or would it just block all light?

A: Rollei infrared is only sensitive up to 850nm. So anything that's blocks 850nm and down prob won't produce an image. I use a Hoya 72 filter with this film.

Q: 6. Many people are saying that they're using a r72 IR filter. Why do you need this if the film is sensitive to only IR?

A: To get the full effect if IR, a filter is needed, that has always been the case. A deep red filter enhances the infrared effect.

Q: 7. How would the camera's exposure / auto-metering be affected by using a fill-flash covered with a 720nm filter (as primary light source)?

A: The exposure would be cut down by quite a bit. It doesn't make sense to shoot in auto. You will have to shoot in manual mode and test by trial and error.

Q: 8. For developing Bergger Pancro 400, I will be using Sprint Standard developer. For 400 ASA, can anyone give me some idea of the developing time (for example at 68 F.) either from experience or time used on other developer I can compare? Bergger says they have no idea since don't use Sprint in Europe. Thanks

A: I have never used Sprint or seen it in USA. I use D76 or ID11 if that is what is available. I mix D76 myself from purchased components. Berggers time seem to be very accurate if you have an accurate thermometer and use their suggested agitation cycle. You might try to interpolate time from something else, say tri x D76 1:1 which is 9 minutes at 68F / 20 C. Bergger 400 is double that.If you are unable to do above, the only other option is to do it by test which can be painful without a starting point. The way to do it is shoot 6 exposures if a subject with full tonal range black to white and is repeatable. I use a studio set up with strobe which is always the same.Cut off 12 in/30 cm and develop that. The is no difference in long or short rolls. In any case you will probably need to adjust any time to your paper, enlarger, condenser or diffusion, thermometer error, water, scanner etc. There are many variables. What is important is you actually print or scan ( whatever is your end product) and not use your eye as the negs appear somewhat flat compared to other films. However they seem to print or scan perfectly.Since the development times are so long, you may use 75F without a problem. My first tests were done that way as that was my ambient temp in the middle of a heat spell. I like iso 200 for the extra shadow detail. cut the 400 iso development time by 15% If your first tests are lacking contrast, use longer times. Less if to much contrast.Should you elect D76, I can be a finicky developer. Allow to cool after mixing 24 hours before use. Use small one time use glass bottles, 4 oz in my case. It does not last even a week in partially full containers. FORGET THE 6 WEEKS KODAY SAYS. Ph goes up then down and development time is unpredictable. This happens within days.In full air tight bottles, it lasts 6 months after which activity decreases slowly. I have taken careful measurements to determine this. Kodak agrees with 6 months. I do not use premixed developers as I have no idea how old they are or how long they were on a store shelf. There is a website called emulsive which ran a 3 part series on this new film. I suggest you look at it. Up to 7 now. I am behind.Bergger has a pdf link on their website with much info similar to what Kodak had when they were a profitable company. Do your best to push thru the experimentation . This a beautifully toned film and I am not a fan of fast films like HP5 and Tri x. It has grain but not excessive, but neither as smooth a TM100 or Delta 100. Iso 200 17 min at 68F agitation 5 sec every 30 condenser enlarger, grade 2 paper. Leica V35 requires Normal + 1/2 grade.200 iso 10 min at 75 deg for condenser Focomat 1C. Do not reuse developer if you are experimenting.HC110 is on the the PDF and is a good alternative. Use 1:31 and mix as required. Use dropper or transfer pipette and graduated 10 cc cylinder to

Q: 9. Can this film be developed in Ilford ILFOTEC DD-X Developer?What is the developing time using the Ilford ILFOTEC DD-X Developer? any recomendations?

A: Hi Ali,So far I have only used Kodak D-76 (1:1), I have been delighted with my results..I don't know if ILFOTEC DD-X compares with D-76.Good Luck enjoy the Film!!!

Q: 10. Given that this film is less sensitive to IR light than visible light, what ASA should it be shot at for infrared photography?

A: It depends on the filter you use with the Rollei Infrared 400 Black and White Negative Film (35mm Roll Film, 36 Exposures). Some say, exposing the film at a maximum of ISO 25 and using an R72 dark red infrared filter or deeper infrared filter. Note it takes experimentation and trial and error