Bergger PrintFilm is a continuous tone black and white lab film intended for traditional darkroom use, especially for the process of making interpositives and internegatives, however it can also be used as a creative-application camera film for unique results. It is sensitive mainly to blue light, and non-sensitive to light beyond 500nm, making it usable under safelight conditions, and it has a film speed of approximately ISO 3 to suit its use in both darkroom and camera applications. PrintFilm has a very fine grain structure and high resolution, making it suitable for producing high-fidelity copies for subsequent reproduction. The emulsion has a yellow tint and is very scratch-resistant, and there are both anti-halation and anti-static layers on the 175μm PET film base to further benefit safe handling and high resolution.

This item is one box of 25 sheets of 11 x 14" film.

Lab Film for Interpositives/Negatives    ISO 3/6° in Standard Process    High Resolution and Very Fine Grain    Scratch-Resistant Yellow-Tinted Emulsion    Orthochromatic, Sensitive Up to 500nm    Anti-Halation and Anti-Static Layers    175μm PET Base

Related Questions and Answers

Q: 1. Are Jobo reels extra?

A: One 1501 Model 35/120mm Developing Reel is included.

Q: 2. For developing Bergger Pancro 400, I will be using Sprint Standard developer. For 400 ASA, can anyone give me some idea of the developing time (for example at 68 F.) either from experience or time used on other developer I can compare? Bergger says they have no idea since don't use Sprint in Europe. Thanks

A: I have never used Sprint or seen it in USA. I use D76 or ID11 if that is what is available. I mix D76 myself from purchased components. Berggers time seem to be very accurate if you have an accurate thermometer and use their suggested agitation cycle. You might try to interpolate time from something else, say tri x D76 1:1 which is 9 minutes at 68F / 20 C. Bergger 400 is double that.If you are unable to do above, the only other option is to do it by test which can be painful without a starting point. The way to do it is shoot 6 exposures if a subject with full tonal range black to white and is repeatable. I use a studio set up with strobe which is always the same.Cut off 12 in/30 cm and develop that. The is no difference in long or short rolls. In any case you will probably need to adjust any time to your paper, enlarger, condenser or diffusion, thermometer error, water, scanner etc. There are many variables. What is important is you actually print or scan ( whatever is your end product) and not use your eye as the negs appear somewhat flat compared to other films. However they seem to print or scan perfectly.Since the development times are so long, you may use 75F without a problem. My first tests were done that way as that was my ambient temp in the middle of a heat spell. I like iso 200 for the extra shadow detail. cut the 400 iso development time by 15% If your first tests are lacking contrast, use longer times. Less if to much contrast.Should you elect D76, I can be a finicky developer. Allow to cool after mixing 24 hours before use. Use small one time use glass bottles, 4 oz in my case. It does not last even a week in partially full containers. FORGET THE 6 WEEKS KODAY SAYS. Ph goes up then down and development time is unpredictable. This happens within days.In full air tight bottles, it lasts 6 months after which activity decreases slowly. I have taken careful measurements to determine this. Kodak agrees with 6 months. I do not use premixed developers as I have no idea how old they are or how long they were on a store shelf. There is a website called emulsive which ran a 3 part series on this new film. I suggest you look at it. Up to 7 now. I am behind.Bergger has a pdf link on their website with much info similar to what Kodak had when they were a profitable company. Do your best to push thru the experimentation . This a beautifully toned film and I am not a fan of fast films like HP5 and Tri x. It has grain but not excessive, but neither as smooth a TM100 or Delta 100. Iso 200 17 min at 68F agitation 5 sec every 30 condenser enlarger, grade 2 paper. Leica V35 requires Normal + 1/2 grade.200 iso 10 min at 75 deg for condenser Focomat 1C. Do not reuse developer if you are experimenting.HC110 is on the the PDF and is a good alternative. Use 1:31 and mix as required. Use dropper or transfer pipette and graduated 10 cc cylinder to

Q: 3. Is the weight correct? Only 2.45lbs for this whole kit?

A: Yes the package weight would be 2.45 lbs.

Q: 4. Does this film have a expiration date ?

A: B&H buys and sells film in bulk. In general we regularly maintain fresh film stock. All of our film is at least 6 months from expiration (typically much longer). Anytime film stock is less than 6 months from expiration we sell it in a separate section and label it as short-dated film and also price it with a slight discount (again due to the volumes we sell this rarely occurs). Unfortunately we do not have access to our inventory to hand inspect the expiration date of any of our films prior to purchase.

Q: 5. Why does this film not ship free to Canada on orders over $99? All other 120 Kodak films are eligible for this offer.

A: I apologize, but this type of request cannot be taken care of through this feature of our website. Please contact our Customer Service department by entering Live Chat, emailing directly to cs@a href= http://bhphoto.com, target= _blank bhphoto.com,/a or calling us toll-free at 800.221.5743.

Q: 6. The specs listed here for this film say C-41 processing. Can this really be correct?

A: That is a mistake , this is not Film Processing C-41

Q: 7. Can I process 2 120 rolls in this tank on 2 separate reels at eh same time?

A: Yes, you can process 2 120 rolls in this tank on 2 separate reels at the same time. Make sure the developer is the right temperature for the two rolls..

Q: 8. What about an unopened bottle? If stored indoors, climate controlled, what is the shelf life?

A: The shelf life of an unopened bottle is approximately 1 year.

Q: 9. What is the best recommended fixer for Foma 100/200/400 4x5 films?

A: We recommend to use either the Ilford Rapid Fixer bh# ILRFL (if using ilford developer and stop bath) or the Kodak Professional Kodafix Fixer bh#KODAFIX (if using Kodak developer and stop bath).

Q: 10. Do you need to use kodak photo flo after using?

A: No. A end-user will only want to use photo flo when trying to to minimize water marks or streaks during film development. But if you wash thorough a end-user does don't have to.