In a 9 x 36" red roll, the Silhouette Reflective Heat Transfer allows you to create high-contrast light-reflective apparel. This is a specialty heat transfer material that reflects light and gives an illuminated appearance in darker settings. Under normal lighting conditions, the surface color is red, but in darker settings, when you shine light directly on the surface, the color becomes bright red. The Reflective Heat Transfer is a film material which has a heat-activated adhesive backing, so it can bond permanently to fabric. It's great for creating customized apparel, such as t-shirts, jerseys, or bags.

This 9" wide version is compatible with the Silhouette Portrait, Portrait 2, Portrait 3, CAMEO, CAMEO 2, CAMEO 3, and CAMEO 4 cutting machines. It can be loaded directly into the machine and does not require the use of a cutting mat. The Reflective Heat Transfer includes its own transfer liner, so no transfer tape is required.

The surface of the Reflective Heat Transfer is not printable.

Create High-Contrast Reflective Apparel    Reflects Light in Darker Settings    Bonds to Fabrics Such as T-Shirts / Bags    For Portrait and CAMEO Cutting Machines    Heat-Activated Adhesive Backing

Related Questions and Answers

Q: 1. When does the film expire?

A: While we're unable to check the exact expiration date of this film, it would generally be within 6 months to one year from now.

Q: 2. Is this film DX coded ?

A: Yes, Ilford HP5 Plus film is DX coded.

Q: 3. Is this the same film compared to this one? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27719-USA/Kodak_GC_135_36_Gold_Max.html

A: Yes both are GC/UltraMax 400 ISO Color Negative film 35mm and 36 exposures. It looks like they may have changed the packaging design and given it a new SKU.

Q: 4. Where can I take this Film to be developed

A: their are places on internet that I had good luck also we have one drug store in Dubuque Iowa that still does one hour HAD GOOD LUCK WITH ALL SO FAR 800 FILM IS GREAT !!!!

Q: 5. If I stop a roll in the middle ( before I finish taking all of the shots) how can I reload/reinsert it

A: Every film shooter runs into the situation where the film in the camera is not the right one. However, there are be too many exposures left to waste. What to do? If you shoot say 20 exposures, you can rewind the film back into the canister and reload with a different film. Then you can go back to the roll you shot 20 exposures and finish the roll. Here is how to do it. Release the film advance mechanism and slowly rewind the film. You must listen and feel for the film releasing from the take up spool. The moment you feel/hear that click/pop, stop rewinding. You can open the camera back and you will have the film tab visible. Tape the tab to the film canister and write how many exposures have been made on the roll. Make this this mark big and obvious. You do not want to load this roll into the camera at a later time and think there is a full roll. If you do that, you will double expose all the previously shot images. If you misjudge and rewind the film all the way back into the canister, you can use a 6" piece of film (you can use processed but junk negative film you probably have in your collection) and put some double faced tape on one end. Shove that end into the canister through that black felt opening and hook the end of the film with the double face tape and pull it out. Or you can use this product to fish the film out. Kaiser 35mm Film retriever B&H # KAFRZ Now put the film back in the container it came in and mark it with the type of film and exposures taken. This is more safety to prevent messing up. When it comes time to reload the exposed film, take the tape and put it on the back of the camera so the number of exposures is big and obvious and thread the film as normal. Now here is the trick. You must have a lens cap on or no lens but a body cap on. Put the aperture to the highest number, the shutter to the highest number and also find a dark room. This is because in order to get past the exposed frames you have to fire the camera the same number times but you do not want to double expose the previously shot frames. Fire the camera and advance the film the number of exposures you have shot plus two more. Now remove the lens cap, set the exposure and shoot the rest of the roll. This sounds more complicated then it is. Rest assured, this is a legitimate procedure. Just be careful otherwise you risk double exposing your film. If you have just two or three exposures left, this procedure is not worth it. Use them up on your family pet. They will thank you.

Q: 6. Hey there, and thanks for the replies to my previous questions, but I'm still a little confused. So once I've finished shooting the whole role of film does it still require a chemical bath OR does it just need to be scanned for the final full color result? thanks...

A: You need to process this film in a lab. It is processed in E-6 chemistry.

Q: 7. Do i need to roll the film canisters myself?

A: Yes. You'll need a bulk film loader to load the canisters. 100' makes about 20 rolls of 35 frames

Q: 8. Does anyone know the reciprocity characteristics of this film?

A: This is the only information that was able to be found on Kodaks website. Adjustments for Long and Short Exposures No filter correction or exposure compensation is required for exposure times from 1 / 10,000 to 10 seconds. At exposure times of 120 seconds, add CC10R filtration. Note: This information applies only when the films are exposed to daylight. The data is based on average emulsions rounded to the nearest 1/3 stop and assume normal, recommended processing. Use the data only as a guide. For critical applications, make tests under your conditions.

Q: 9. My camera does not have ISO 80 as an option. I'm shooting with the Minolta XE-5 which goes right from 60 to 125. Whats an ideal way to handle this situation if I want to experiment with this film?

A: Your camera does have the option of selecting ISO 80. You are looking at the shutter-speed dial. Consult your user's manual to find how to select the ISO.

Q: 10. the film processing only says Black & white, is it ok if the developer uses color processing?

A: This is b&w film that uses b&w chemistry only. No color chemistry should be used.