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Tiffen 2x2" Light Red #23a Glass Filter For Black & White Film

Tiffen 2x2" Light Red #23a Glass Filter For Black & White Film
  • Product Code: ga213867
  • Availability: In Stock

$319.50 $396.18

This Light Red Filter is for producing contrast effects that darken sky and water, as in more dramatic architectural photography. Not recommended for flesh tones.

This filter is glass and measures 50 x 50 mm (2x2") x 4 mm thick.

Parameters
Filter TypeBlack & White Contrast #23A Orange/Light Red
Size2 x 2" / 50.8 x 50.8 mm 
Front Accessory Thread / BayonetNo
Filter MaterialGlass
Packaging Info
Package Weight0.15 lb
Box Dimensions (LxWxH)4.3 x 4.2 x 0.8"

Not as strong as a #25 Red filter

Darkens blue sky creating dramatic contrast between sky and clouds

Effective in cutting through haze; Creates contrast between foliage and flowers

Related Questions and Answers

Q: 1. Will I be able to use this film in a Kodak Instamatic m6 Super 8mm camera?

A: Yes, IF the camera were usable. However, due to the fact that KODAK used neoprene drive gears on the main motor shaft, 99% of these have by now dried up and crumbled rendering the majority of Super 8mm cameras KODAK ever made unusable. My recommendation is to find another Super 8mm to use and forget trying to use the KODAK. Even IF it works, it WILL fail, often before you can finish the cartridge of film.

Q: 2. Will this film work on a Bolex 150 Super camera?

A: It should work fine as long as your camera can take 50 foot rolls.

Q: 3. Hi I have a Bell & Howell Filmosonic XL 1230 super 8 camera. Does one have to use any type of filter when filming with this type of film i.e. Kodak 7266 Black and White Reversal film? It mentions Wratten number filters in the specs on this film but what happens if you don't use filters and are filters really needed for black and white? I am very new to super 8 and will begin making movies with super 8 next year. My camera has an internal orange filter which appears when the sun/daylight button is chosen but disappears when bulb is chosen. I read that today's films must be made with the bulb switch selected. Again, does this type of black and white film need any filters when making movies on it? Regards, Christopher G.

A: A filter can be used depending on what type of light there is: tungsten or daylight. with B&W there is a minimal difference, a bigger one with color.

Q: 4. Will this film work on a Bell and Howell One Nine 8mm camera?

A: It's a super8 filmstock not standard 8. So if you're camera is not super8 it will not work.

Q: 5. Will this work for A snaky em-20xl?

A: The Kodak #7266 TXR464 Super 8 50' Eastman Tri-X Reversal Silent Movie Film will work with the Sankyo em-20xl super 8 camera.

Q: 6. Will this film work in a 1966 GAF video camera? Can it by processed to be used on a movie projector?

A: I don't know about using it in a video camera, but it can certainly be processed as reversal and screened on a film projector.

Q: 7. Since you can process this like a camera negative doesn't it just need the same developer, stop bath, fixer, and a water rinse ?

A: You need to send the reel to be processed. You will not get good results trying to home process.

Q: 8. Is this film compatible with an Olympus Infinity Stylus camera or just the Holga?

A: You can use this film with any 35mm camera.

Q: 9. i just got a canon super 8 zoom 814; so can I use this film? I'm new to super 8

A: Yes, absolutely. Just be sure to check if the camera still functions correctly with a new pair of batteries. You shouldn't have any problems shooting with this film in outdoor and indoor settings. Just be sure to switch the tungsten/daylight filter knob on and off according to the correct exposure.

Q: 10. Hi! I bought this Kodak cartridge and I was wondering... When I put the cartridge in, since there's already a little lenght of film that is visible at the beginning of the reel and that therefore, that part of the film might be exposed... Should I shoot for a few seconds before actually filming what I have to film (to make sure it comes out the way I want it to)?If so, how many seconds approximately? Thank you!

A: just start shooting, what is exposed is really few photograms. Whenever you take out the catridge you will expose like 4 photograms, is not that much, is less than a second (it depends on your camera but usually they use a format that is 18 photograms per second) sorry for my bad english, i hope you understand.

14/09/2024

This is almost as easy as the premixed Df96. There are two tiny packs of powder that you dissolve one at a time into water, and that is it.

I love this stuff. It is so easy to develop with one chemical only. I have yet to have a problem with anything not developing satisfactorily. I have pushed and pulled a stop, and that works too.

You can't go wrong developing at about a dollar a roll!

5
14/09/2024

This is almost as easy as the premixed Df96. There are two tiny packs of powder that you dissolve one at a time into water, and that is it.

I love this stuff. It is so easy to develop with one chemical only. I have yet to have a problem with anything not developing satisfactorily. I have pushed and pulled a stop, and that works too.

You can't go wrong developing at about a dollar a roll!

5
26/08/2024

I have never used any other B&W chemistry to develop my film, but this stuff is super simple and seems to be able to develop a good amount of film with a single bottle. It also works incredibly fast(~3min at 80F). I have already gone through several rolls of 120 and 35mm film and I haven't noticed any difference in the final development.

5
25/08/2024

I've been a photographer for 50 years. I've always developed my own film. I have used just about every developer out there and every method. I bought this on whim last fall. I'd been reluctant to try it out just because it sounds too good to be true. The other night I developed 6 rolls of film with 5 different types of film (HP5, FP4, Tri-X,Delta 3200, and Cinestill Super XX. It took 4 mins for entire process (at 80 degrees) and the results were amazing. I couldn't believe it. Its simple, quick and easy and you get fantastic results. I'm going to try this for my LF negatives.

5
25/08/2024

I've been a photographer for 50 years. I've always developed my own film. I have used just about every developer out there and every method. I bought this on whim last fall. I'd been reluctant to try it out just because it sounds too good to be true. The other night I developed 6 rolls of film with 5 different types of film (HP5, FP4, Tri-X,Delta 3200, and Cinestill Super XX. It took 4 mins for entire process (at 80 degrees) and the results were amazing. I couldn't believe it. Its simple, quick and easy and you get fantastic results. I'm going to try this for my LF negatives.

5
23/08/2024

Cinestill DF9 has become my favorite developer for all my black & white films. I am limited for space, so finding this monobath has been a life saver. It is so fast and the results are amazing.

5
05/08/2024

I got my start in film photography at the tail-end of the Eisenhower era, and began developing my own film during Nixon's second term, so I've been at it for a while. Like many, I gave up on film when the digital age dawned.
When the pandemic hit, I decided to do something different and began shooting film again. Finding capable and reliable film technicians is not an easy task, though, so the idea of again developing my own B&W film began to appeal to me. A bit of research brought the CineStill DF96 to my attention, and I figured, Why not?
Long story (reasonably) short, I bought a jug, dug out my 50 year old developing tank and changing bag, and got to it. The result? I see no reason to try anything else!
The contrast and grain are right on par with what I used to get with the somewhat more complicated - and certainly messier - traditional method, but I'm done in less than 12 minutes - beginning to end! I've developed 7 rolls since purchase, and not a glitch or misstep to mar the experience. Check out the couple of attached photos.
Do I recommend it? You bet! If you're a beginner at home developing, it's a great way to gain some confidence in the process without breaking the bank. If you are a seasoned developer, give it a try - it might just simplify your workflow enough to let you get out and burn through some more film!
Now if CineStill can just formulate a one-step C-41 process...

5
29/07/2024

This monobath worked extremely well. Quick development and easy instructions make for a very pleasant experience. Will be using this product in the future.

5
25/07/2024

I'd never developed my own film before, but read about this product and decided to give it a try. You put the film on a reel, put it in a tank, dump in the chemical, agitate it for a few minutes, and it's done. It really is that simple. And the results were great. I'd highly recommend giving it a try.

5
03/07/2024

If you don’t feel like messing with all the chemicals or simply don’t have room for multiple jugs of chemicals(or don’t want to mix fixer in your apartment) this is a great option! I’ve been shooting film for 13 years now and I was very skeptical about a monobath but the results are pretty good! Though they aren’t perfect, I’ve noticed streaking, dots and fixer marks on the edges. Also keep in mind the developing time is rarely 3 minutes, even if you only shoot cinestill, trix400 or hp5, once you run a few rolls you have to start adding 15 seconds for each roll and I feel like it adds up quick. I always added an extra minute on everything just because it seemed my film wasn’t clearing enough, especially tmax, but I started just adding it to everything. Making sure to heat bottle under running water to 80 first helps. Also the bottle seems to leak so be careful with it.

5

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