This Dark Green filter is ideal for scenes where it is important to differentiate the green tonal values in black and white photography.

A dark green filter that produces very light foliage on black and white film

Also used for contrast effects (lightens green/darkens red)

Related Questions and Answers

Q: 1. can i blank this film in bleach so i can directly animate on it?

A: If you want to draw on blank film to do animation you need the frame marks. And bleaching it will leave you with a long roll of blank film.Best is to put this in a camera and shoot white paper and over expose it and then have it processed only.Then it will have the frame marks on blank film.

Q: 2. Is the cost of processing included? Super 8 film used to include a postage paid envelope to send the film in for processing, and the cost was included in the price of the film.

A: no,it is not included.

Q: 3. Does this film have the original widely-spaced holes on one side of the film like the original 828 ? OR . . . does it have the closely-spaced double sprockets on both sides like 35mm film has ?

A: This film has no sprocket holes.

Q: 4. Hi! Will this film work well in outdoor daylight too? Thanks!

A: Hi! Yes It does.

Q: 5. Can we shoot twice on this film?

A: No - this film is only exposed through the camera one time.

Q: 6. Will this film work with Bell & Howell autoload model 379 camera?

A: From our research the Bell & Howard Autoload 379 model is a Super 8 camera. This film should work in it.

Q: 7. i just got a canon super 8 zoom 814; so can I use this film? I'm new to super 8

A: Yes, absolutely. Just be sure to check if the camera still functions correctly with a new pair of batteries. You shouldn't have any problems shooting with this film in outdoor and indoor settings. Just be sure to switch the tungsten/daylight filter knob on and off according to the correct exposure.

Q: 8. Can this be developed like b&w film at home ? How can I turn it digital at home ?

A: Hi MonicaYeah.I use a paterson tank,and just pull it out of the canister in arm lengths .I then just sort of wrap it into the tank.My work is quite grungy so i don't mind if I lose a frame or two if it's sticks or kinks.I then process in ID-11 using the digital truth dev chart time.It comes out pretty grainy but i like that....Then i bought a wolverine super 8 transfer machine from B&H and it transfers it to an AVi file.

Q: 9. Hi! I bought this Kodak cartridge and I was wondering... When I put the cartridge in, since there's already a little lenght of film that is visible at the beginning of the reel and that therefore, that part of the film might be exposed... Should I shoot for a few seconds before actually filming what I have to film (to make sure it comes out the way I want it to)?If so, how many seconds approximately? Thank you!

A: just start shooting, what is exposed is really few photograms. Whenever you take out the catridge you will expose like 4 photograms, is not that much, is less than a second (it depends on your camera but usually they use a format that is 18 photograms per second) sorry for my bad english, i hope you understand.

Q: 10. How long can I wait before development and before latent image is affected? Kodak states "ASAP', but that doesn't answer the ?.

A: Like most films including the Kodak Tri-X Black-and-White Reversal Film #7266 (Super 8, 50' Roll) the latent image is very sensitive. And it is best to process the film as soon as you can. There is no set time frame. But I would not go more than 2-3 weeks. Note depending on many factors like temperature and humidity it can accelerate the issue.